The land-locked harbour offers an excellent overnight anchorage with protection from all conditions. But Ardgroom requires highly involved navigation as the intricate entrance utilises transit beacons to marks a dog-legged approach. These are often grey or obscured by trees and very hard to see - particularly so in the early part of the day with the sun in the east. This makes it a testing exercise for the first visit, with daylight, settled conditions under engine and in a vessel with good manoeuvrability a prerequisite.
Keyfacts for Ardgroom Harbour
Nature
Considerations
Protected sectors
Summary
A completely protected location with highly involved navigation required for access.Nature
Considerations
Position and approaches
Haven position
51° 45.230' N, 009° 52.666' WIn the centre of the anchorage off the pier.
What is the initial fix?
What are the key points of the approach?
- Good visibility, settled conditions, binoculars, and a bearing compass are recommended for a carefully piloted approach under power.
- This requires the use of multiple transits based around five unlit stone beacons.
- The final approaches then skirts mussel rafts.
Not what you need?
- Kilmakilloge Harbour - 1.6 nautical miles ENE
- Sneem Harbour - 3.4 nautical miles N
- Ballycrovane Harbour - 3.8 nautical miles SW
- Mill Cove - 6 nautical miles S
- Ormond's Harbour - 6.3 nautical miles NE
- Castletownbere (Castletown Bearhaven) - 6.3 nautical miles S
- West Cove - 6.7 nautical miles W
- Adrigole - 7.3 nautical miles SE
- Dunboy Bay & Traillaun Harbour - 7.4 nautical miles SSW
- Lawrence Cove - 7.4 nautical miles SSE
- Kilmakilloge Harbour - 1.6 miles ENE
- Sneem Harbour - 3.4 miles N
- Ballycrovane Harbour - 3.8 miles SW
- Mill Cove - 6 miles S
- Ormond's Harbour - 6.3 miles NE
- Castletownbere (Castletown Bearhaven) - 6.3 miles S
- West Cove - 6.7 miles W
- Adrigole - 7.3 miles SE
- Dunboy Bay & Traillaun Harbour - 7.4 miles SSW
- Lawrence Cove - 7.4 miles SSE
Chart
What's the story here?
Image: Michael Harpur
Located on the south shore of the Kenmare River, directly opposite to Sneem Harbour on the north shore, Ardgroom harbour straddles the county boundaries of Cork and Kerry border. It has very little development and being wooded all along its inner parts is very pretty. The busy working Pallas Pier lies in its northwest corner sheltered by a long spit of land called the Cus that juts out from the inner side of the western entrance. The small village of Ardgroom lies inland to the southwest.
Image: Michael Harpur
The land-locked harbour Ardgroom Harbour offers protection from all conditions off Pallas Harbour with 2 to 6 metres of water. However, Ardgroom has an intricate entrance, using multiple transits, which it is best to assume, will be difficult to distinguish. Principally, the first of which is often obscured by trees and very hard to see. This makes it a testing exercise for the first visit where daylight and settled conditions are a prerequisite. The inner bay is much given to mussel fishery but do not be deterred by the hectares of mussel barrels as there is ample room.
How to get in?
Image: Michael Harpur
Use Ireland’s coastal overview for Mizen Head to Loop Head for seaward approaches. Progressing up the Kenmare River the opening of Ardgroom will be very conspicuous from some distance. Knocknamona, its low dark western point, slopes down from an elevation of 60 metres, and is surrounded by outlying dangers. The Kidney Rocks, running off more than 200 metres about a ½ a mile southwest of Dog’s Point, are generally visible in the wash of the sea. Then entrance is then easily identified by Dog Point, rising to a height of 62 metres and Carravaniheen Island, 1 metre high, situated a little under ½ a mile to the northwest of the point.
Image: Michael Harpur
Stay clear of Carravaniheen as it is foul with submerged rocks extending 200 metres to the southwest, and a ⅓ of a mile to the northward and northeastward. There is a marine farm between it and the shore.
Image: Michael Harpur
Within this is the harbour mouth that is found with a ridge of isolated rocks, reefs, islets through which the entrance channel is marked by unlit beacons, including an outer single beacon and two pairs of leading beacons within the harbour.
From the initial fix turn on to the 135° T track leading onto the Halftide Rock Beacon. This is the commencement of three sets of alignments that must be accurately steered, making sure to pick up the next pair in plenty of time so as not to overrun the intersection points. Vessels are advised to come in under power with a good bearing compass and binoculars to hand. All three leading lines for entry are as follows:
Image: Burke Corbett
(i) Steer a bearing of 135° T into the single Halftide Rock Beacon a ⅓ of a mile east southeast of Dog’s Point. Mussel rafts extend from Dog’s Point to Black Rock which makes itself known by its white pillar. On closer approaches, the Halftide Rock Beacon is then passed on its northern side.
- 135° and 099° leading bearings intersection point – position: 51°45.750N 009°52.431W
This waypoint is the charted intersection point of the lead in of 135° T on the Halftide beacon and the second 099° T (R 279° T) pair of beacons leading to Black Rock Beacon. It is approximately 80 metres northwest of the conspicuous black beacon by Halftide rock where the vessel should turn to port.
(ii) Then steer a bearing of 099° T leading line provided by the pair of beacons of the Black Rock (front) and the rear found in the trees about ½ a mile behind.
Image: Graham Rabbits
It is the latter rear beacon that is sometimes made inconspicuous by bushes. Even when they are cut back they tend to hide it from view and only its top shows at first. It will, most likely, be seen when the intersection point has been reached. It is important not to mistake the white bungalow for the leading mark or several white chimneys that are more conspicuous surrounding it.
Image: Graham Rabbits
This is the critical path to track in on as it leads between the awash Ship Rock and outer awash extremity rocks of Skellig Rock, on the north side, and the Sko Rock awash extremity on the south. It also leads over the harbour's rocky bar that has a least depth of 2.4 metres at about the midpoint of this alignment.
- 009° and 026° leading bearing intersection point – position: 51°45.659N 009°51.506W
The following waypoint is the charted intersection with the second 099° beacon leading to Black Rock (white beacon) and the third 026°/206° (astern) leading line off Yellow Rock (dark concrete with faded black painted bands) into the harbour. It is approximately 120 metres west by northwest of the Black Rock beacon where the vessel is turned to starboard.
(iii) Then steer a bearing of 206° T following a reciprocal astern bearing of 026° T on the pair of beacons fronted by Yellow Rock (front) and the rear beacon on the north shore about 300 metres behind. This proceeds in deep water for about a ½ a mile until the northern line of mussel rafts appear.
Image: Graham Rabbits
- 026° leading bearing endpoint – position: 51°45.205N 009°51.862W
This waypoint is on the alignment before the northern line of the mussel rafts that occupy the southern half of the bay will be encountered. This is before the charted line ends as the encroaching rafts have now occupied this space.
Image: Burke Corbett
It is then safe to turn westward into the harbour which has plenty of water. Follow the line rafts westward and pass to the south of Cus Island keeping well clear of it as foul ground extends 300 metres outward of its southern extremity. Running along the seaward edge of the barrels is the easiest way to clear the shallows to the north.
island for Pallis Pier
Image: Michael Harpur
Continue towards the western shore skirting the mussel rafts in the south side of the bay and those to the west of Cus island and its foul ground.
Image: Graham Rabbits
Anchor to the south of Pallas Pier or pass around the west side of the mussel rafts and anchor to the northwest of the quay according to conditions. The bottom consists of sand/mud offering good holding but questionable around the shale bank near the harbour.
Image: Michael Harpur
Land at the pier or its slip on the southern pier.
Why visit here?
The origin of the name Ardgroom is uncertain. Some believe it derives from Árd gruama, 'gloomy height' referring to its overlooking mountain's dark surface being shrouded in sea fogs. Alternatively, and more widely held, it is derived from the Irish Dhá Dhrom, which means 'two drums'. This refers to its two gravelly hills of Dromárd and Drombeg, which were deposited by a glacier.Image: Philip Hay via CC BY-SA 3.0
Whichever the case this is an area is steeped in history and a number of megalithic monuments can be explored nearby. The most picturesque of these is the Ardgroom Stone Circle which can be found a couple of miles to the southwest of the village. Located in the lowlands between the harbour and the hills it is also sometimes also known as the Canfea Stone Circle after the local townland. The circle consists of 11 stones, 9 of which are still upright with one alignment stone outside the circle. Unusually for a stone circle, its stones tend to taper toward points, possibly to echo a craggy conical hill standing south by southwest.
Image: Tourism Ireland
Its positioning was certainly intended as the vistas from the site are spectacular. All around are high mountains, small green hills, crags, and all around the chorus of trickling streams descending to the sea.
Image: © Clay Piercy
About a mile to the northeast lie the remains of another stone circle called the Cashakeelty Stone Circle. It was on an ancient track, known as the Green Road, that connected the two sites and also connected communities by spanning a good part of the peninsula. Only three stones from this alignment group remain in place today. But, once again, the panoramic views near the alignment stones are vast.
Both of these sites feature on the Beara Way - Long Distance Walking Route. Also in the vicinity are the remains of at least two ring forts and stone rows. Ardgroom is also a base for exploring the scenic glacial valley around Glenbeg Lough nestled into the Berra Penninsula.
Image: Michael Harpur
Pallas Pier takes its name from the period from the 16th century onwards to beyond Victorian times when seining was extensively carried out in the Southwest Coast of Ireland. Fish Palaces or Pallices, the outlying curing stations, were numerous in Ardgroom Harbour. In Victorian times when the fish were landed, they were either salted or stored in ice. An ice ship called the 'Trafalgar' anchored near Deenish Island to collect the fish. When she was full she was towed away to England by the paddle boat Trojdan. 'Trafalgar' would eventually be wrecked in Berehaven Bay. An old processing building remains to this day with holes in the wall that supported the beams that extended out over the barrels of fish to extract/press out the valuable oil, which was in much demand across Europe.
Image: Graham Rabbits
From a boating point of view, Ardgroom offers a landlocked harbour with perfect security off of Pallas Pier. Although it has been encroached upon by aquaculture it remains a lovely bay with high ground on the south side and some beautiful views. The only challenge is the navigation that could provide a spot of interesting pilotage in good conditions.
What facilities are available?
There are no facilities in Ardgroom Harbour save for a Pallas pier and slip. The small Ardgroom village, 3.4 Km (45 minutes walk) from the pier has most village amenities, including a wonderful restaurant. Harrington's general store incorporates the post office and a service station will meet most general requirements. The 282 282 runs service stops and Harrington's and the shop runs an early morning minibus service to Cork every day except Thursdays (booking essential). A local taxi is run by John O'Shea, Tel: +353 87 6713372, or contact Harrington's shop.Any security concerns?
Never an incident known to have occurred in Ardgroom.With thanks to:
Burke Corbett, Gusserane, New Ross, Co. Wexford.Pallas Harbour, Ardgroom
Add your review or comment:
Michael Harpur wrote this review on May 18th 2018:
Thank you that is so helpful. I have now put that to rights. Any other issues please let me know.
Average Rating: UnratedPietro Totaro wrote this review on May 11th 2018:
Hi,
actually, the first, 2nd and 3rd picture show Cleandra Harbour, out and 3 miles WSW from Ardgroom Harbour. The view in the third picture is from Shamrock Cliff and not from Droumard. Near Droumard, in fact, there is a nice pier on Ardgroom Harbour.
Kind regards,
Pietro
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